Corner Suite Bistro

Napkin slots built into the table!

It’s rare for me to be so struck by a restaurant’s design that I look around, pointing and chatting for entire minutes before even glancing at a menu. But that’s Corner Suite—definitely striking. While I’m not entirely convinced about this specific shade of blue or the shiny black tables (disclaimer: I am the opposite of a crow, and have a definite aversion to shiny things like patent leather, satin and bling). Colour and texture aside, I loved the thoughtful, functional details like handbag hooks under the table. And look at that brilliant slot in the table surface for napkins!

Of course you want to know about the food. Be patient already! It was very, very good. I mean, very good. I’ll tell you all about it soon. But first you need to know about the drinks, because aside from the design, the bar is one of the most distinctive things about this place.

This cocktail menu is a book. A big book. Think Proust’s Remembrance of  Things Past, but far more engaging. Quirky, confident writing that’s a pleasure to read. You might get lost in the descriptions and in the excess of choice. It took me ages to settle on one, and I didn’t ever get beyond the first page.

These are serious, serious cocktails. Cocktails done right. Both in the creative new style of truly inspired mixology, and in the fine tradition of old films, dial telephones and bespoke suits. A Gimlet with Rose’s Lime Cordial, a Manhattan, a Sloe Gin Fizz, a Rob Roy. Some of these cocktails have a seasonal focus: blood oranges in later winter. Not quite local, but from California, and picked when they should be, in their prime of ripeness. (Some of the spirits themselves are local: the award-winning Schramm vodka lives here, as does Victoria Gin.)

There is an entire page of champagne cocktails alone. Of course that includes the classic Kir Royale, but this barman goes way beyond classics. Imagine a champagne cocktail with Pernod, or Pimms No.1. Now that is civilized.

Okay, food. I was quite tempted by the halibut with kabosha squash ravioli, but the fact is that I’d been craving a burger for a couple of weeks. So I went for it. And this is a fine, fine burger, adorably presented, not too big, flanked by a lovely nest of frites. When offered ketchup or aioli, of course I asked for both. All that, and I wasn’t stuffed like a piece of Victorian furniture. In fact, I had room to share a tarte tatin, and I’m very glad I did. It was heaven.

There is one thing you need to know:  the steak frites comes with blue cheese butter. Yes!

I will definitely be back, with a raging thirst and a hearty appetite. And I will be back soon.